Match of the week

Prawn tagliolini and Poggio San Polo Rosso di Montalcino

Prawn tagliolini and Poggio San Polo Rosso di Montalcino

If there’s one thing you might think you could be sure of it would be that you should drink white wine with a seafood pasta dish like this. But, you know what? It was this silkily delicious red that went swimmingly.

I bought a couple of bottles of the 2014 vintage after I’d visited San Polo in Montalcino earlier this year - thinking a fresh-tasting Italian sangiovese would be just what I’d feel like drinking in summer. Friends had invited me round to sample their newly acquired skill of making fresh pasta so we had it with a great plate of homemade tagliolini with prawns (shrimp) and chilli which, despite the chilli, was quite a delicate dish.

They weren't inclined to think a red would work - and it wasn’t the sort of red that normally appeals to them but, of course, it leapt into life with the food and they absolutely loved it.

I’m not saying a fresh-tasting Italian white like a vermentino wouldn’t have worked too but it’s a predictable match and sometimes it’s fun to push the envelope. (And impress your friends ;-)

If you want to try the combination yourself you can get from slurp.co.uk for £16.99 a bottle and from Richard Granger for £18.72.

Chicken liver crostini and Rosso di Montalcino

Chicken liver crostini and Rosso di Montalcino

One of the most striking things about my trip to Tuscany last week was the reminder of how good young red wines are with Tuscan food - right the way through the meal, not just with the main course.

It was certainly true of the first lunch we had when we arrived which was co-hosted by the Bolgheri winery Poggio al Tesoro and San Polo in Montalcino, both owned by the Allegrini family.

I expected Poggio al Tesoro’s fragrant Solosole Vermentino to match the crostini that were handed round at the beginning of the meal - and it did - but not quite as well as the elegant 2014 San Polo Rosso di Montalcino which sailed effortlessly through the tomato, mushroom and (most challenging of all) chicken liver toppings. It also paired really well with a creamy dish of fettucine, zucchini, pancetta and robiola cheese - as did the 2008 vintage of the Solosole which I was also tempted to make my match of the week.

This would apply equally well to youthful chiantis or any other young sangioveses. It’s the acidity that makes them work so well - and the fact that, like white wines, they’re served at cellar temperature.

The San Polo Rosso di Montalcino costs £16.99 from slurp.co.uk and £18.95 at Eton Vintners.

I travelled to Tuscany with Liberty Wines

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